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Shillong
became the Headquarters of the Government of the Province
in 1874 when the Chief Commissionership was created
and Assam was separated from Bengal. The first Chief
Commissioner was Colonel R.H.Keatings, C.S V.C., I.C.S.,
who held office from 7th February 1874 to 21st June
1878. Ten years earlier, i.e. in 1864, the present Shillong
had been chosen as a Sanatorium in place of Cherrapunji,
so that there must have been a considerable nucleus
of residents when the headquarters of the Province was
set up there. The correct name of the locality was Yeddo,
Yeoduh, Yewdoo or Yendoe to use the various spellings
of official correspondence, but it was given the name
of Shillong which properly belong to the “Peak”
locality. Gait in his “History of Assam”
gives as the reason the fact that there is a Yeddo in
Japan, but quotes no authority for this. Captain Kelsall,
whose name survives in “Kelsall Road” and
“Kelsall Lodge”, was the Executive Engineer,
who laid out the new station and Major H.S.Bivar was
Deputy Commissioner during the period of construction.
The official recommendation to transfer the station
from Cherrapunji to Shillong was made in a letter No.32,
dated 27th May 1862, from Brigadier General G.D.Showers,
CB, Commissioner of the Cossiah and Jyntiah Hills.
There are no records of the buildings before the earthquake
of 1897. There is, however, extant a photograph which
shows the front of the old house as it was before it
was destroyed in 1897. It must have been a building
without any architectural qualities and Mr Arundell,
who designed the new house, describes it as a “building
which had been added to from time to time upon no preconceived
plan and was in many ways inconveniently and wastefully
arranged”. It was a stone building like most of
the other houses in Shillong at that time and had a
corrugated iron roof. The accommodation was probably
very meagre judging from the sketch plan for the new
house which was drawn up after the earthquake and which
followed pretty closely the old ground plan. That sketch
plan provided for one large central Reception Room,
a Drawing Room, a Sitting Room, a Dining Room and a
Breakfast Room, while there were only three bed-rooms
(2 described as “principal” bed-rooms and
one as a Guest's bed-room). There was also a large office
room on the south-side and a Ball-room on the north-side,
as now.
The situation was no doubt the same as it is now, i.e.,
in the south-east corner or the British area of Shillong.
The present area covered by Government House and its
grounds amounts to 34 acres. Up to June 11th 1876 when
the Shillong Church was first used, church services
were held at Government House. Thus there is an entry
in the Shillong Church Record book, dated 12th April
1876 which says that on Easter Day the Residency Hall
was used for church services as usual. (Does this mean
the main central room called at various times the “Reception
Room”, “Billiard Room” and “Library”
or the Ball Room?). It is interesting to add that Colonel
Keatinge, who was Chief Commissioner from 1874 to 1878,
is referred to in the same book as the “virtual
founder and steady supporter of the Church”.
Then came the great earthquake of June 12, 1897, when
Government House and practically every other building
in Shillong was laid flat. Probably the best accounts
about this disaster are to be found in the official
report to the Government or India No.5409-G., dated
the 14th August 1897, and especially the report from
the Deputy Commissioner which is enclosed, No.1736,
dated the 29th July 1897. The then Deputy Commissioner
was Mr J.C.Arbuthnott, I.C.S. There is also a chapter
devote to the subject in late Sir Henry Cotton's book
“Indian and Home Memories”, published in
1911. Sir Henry Cotton was the Chief Commissioner at
the time and had an extremely narrow escape from death
as he and Lady Cotton were in the porch just entering
their trap for their evening drive as the house collapsed.
The pony bolted with the towards the main gate, while
the house fell in ruins behind them. The official report
states that the shock could not have lasted for less
than 3 minutes though the period of extreme intensity
was probably limited to about 30 seconds, while the
fall of Government House, the largest building in Shillong,
must have been completed 5 seconds. Shocks went on perpetually
at the rate of about 200 a day for the first two or
three days after the 12th of June and the miseries of
the houseless inhabitants were intensified by 48 hours’
continuous rain. Deaths in Shillong numbered 29, including
two Europeans Mr R.B.MoCabe, I.C.S., then Inspector-General
of Police and Mr Rossenrode, a Survey Department pensioner,
who were killed by their houses falling on them. The
total number of deaths in the province were estimated
at 1542.
Steps toward rebuilding were early taken up. Mr Arbuthnott,
the Deputy Commissioner, strongly recommended that the
opportunity should be taken to erect the new station
“on the extensive plateau which commence at the
5th mile on the Cherrapunji road”, 1,000 feet
above the old site. But this was not, no doubt for good
reasons, accepted, and the work of reconstructions proceeded
on the old site. For Government House the sketch plan
drawn up by Mr Arundell, M.S.A., Executive Engineer,
Assam Bengal Railway, was approved. This is dated 31.t
May 1898. Mr Arundell worked on and improved a plan
drawn up by the Public Works Department based or the
plan of the old house, and, a. he says 1n on one of
his letters, “the general disposition of the rooms
and the dimensions of the principal ones is identical
ones in both plans”. Taking the building from
North to South it provided for
- A bathroom measuring 30'x52' flank
by cloak-rooms on the West and East sides, a band-gallery,
at the North End, and a “Refreshment Room”
with gallery over it on the East.
- Next comes the Guests' bedroom and dressing
room with 2 bathrooms, apparently the only accommodation
for Guests. This was (and still is) an inside, ill-ventilated
room. It is now used as a small dining room.
- To the West of this bedroom, on the
other side of the corridor was a Breakfast Room (converted
in 190 into the study).
- Next came the dining room 20' x45 "
as it is now.
- Then, in line with the Eastern halt
of the dining room, we have a dressing room, (ii)
a principal bedroom, (iii) another dressing room.
There was an octagonal bathroom of generous dimensions
protruding into the Eastern end of (i) and (ii), but
with access only from (i) the dressing room, which
looks as if it was intended that the lady as well
as her husband should enjoy a dressing room.
- Continuing southwards in the same line,
we come to the office, a fine room 30'x30', which
in 1902 became the “principal” bedroom.
- Adjoining to the western wall of the
second dressing room and the office was the boudoir
as it is now.
- Next and west of the boudoir was the
“Sitting Room” which was thrown into the
drawing room by Mr J.B. (later Sir Bampfylde) Fuller
in 1902.
- Next the Sitting Room in the south-west
corner of the house was the Drawing Room, much smaller
than it is at present.
- Then between the sitting Room and the
Dining Room was the big central “Reception Room”
measuring 22'6”x40'6”, known subsequently
and variously at the Billiard Room and the Library.
- Running from north to South along the
front of the Dining Room and the Reception Room was
the Hall.
- The main entrance was, as it is now,
on the west. The porch was surmounted by a sort of
spire tiled like the rest of the house in red painted
teak wood with white rails round the base of the spire.
Similar extinguisher-like spires but of larger dimensions
still surmount the bays in the study and the drawing
room, a common architectural feature in Shillong houses.
The new building instead of being of masonry was of
the “earthquake-proof” pattern composed
of timber frames with “ekra” covered with
plaster in between, while the roof was made of teak
shingles, an improvement on the old corrugated iron
roof.
This building was estimated to cost Rs.1,53,425 but
the cost was subsequently raised to Rs.1,87,713. The
house was rebuilt between 1899 and 1903.
It is interesting to observe that before the new building
was constructed, the Chief Commissioner had a temporary
Ballroom put up at a cost of Rs.7,657/- which was to
be completed so as to enable him to give a Ball on 25th
May 1897 “The Queen Empress' Birthday”.
This indicate that some sort of a temporary Government
House must have been run up and taken into use between
the date of the earthquake and the completion of the
new building.
The new house was begun and the main part of the work
must have pretty well been completed in Sir Henry Cotton's
time as he finally vacated office on 28th April 1902.
The work was, of course, carried out by the Public Works
Department, Messrs. W.H.Nightingale and G.J.Perra being
the Chief Engineers in that period.
The house was still far from complete when Mr Fuller
(later Sir Bampfylde Fuller) took office in 1902, as
it shown by a note which he recorded 6 months later
to the effect that Government House “must be completed
without delay by the 28th February next.” As he
had acted for Sir Henry Cotton for 3 months in 1900,
he was probably acquainted with the plans and had forms
his own views as to what was appropriate, for he lost
in time in putting them into execution. The day after
the office he issued instructions countermanding the
order of any stained glass or Anaglyptic decoration
(the late was intended for the Drawing Room). At the
same time he ordered the conversion of the breakfast
room (No.(3) in paragraph 3 above) into the Chief Commissioner's
office which it has remained ever since: made a Billiard
Room of the Reception Rooms: threw the Sitting Room
into the Drawing Room: converted the old office into
the Chief Commissioner’s Bedroom: and converted
the Chief Commissioner's old Bedroom into a Guest's
Room. There is a reference to carved fire-places in
the Billiard Room and Drawing Room and the Multan tiles
of the former. The former with its tiles still exists,
a thing of little beauty, but the carved fire-place
in the Drawing Room was either never installed or else
was removed. One small result of the last re-arrangement
was that the old large octagonal Bathroom attached to
the Principal Bedroom (No.(5) (ii) in paragraph 3 above)
was divided in two (as it now is) to serve the Guests'
Bed and Dressing Room.
Mr Fuller’s orders a1so were that the Drawing
room was to be papered with yellow damask paper “like
Simla Viceregal Lodge”.
The new house therefore was a considerable improvement
on the old. It was provided with more bedroom accommodation,
a bigger drawing room and a billiard table, and was
in general, better arranged.
In 1905-06 there was heavy expenditure consequence
on Shillong becoming the Summer Capital of the newly
formed province of Eastern Bengal and Assam and some
Rs.40,000/- had to be spent mainly on enlarging existing
and constructing new staff quarters. Sir Bampfylde Fuller
was the first Lieutenant-Governor of Eastern Bengal
and Assam and held office from 16th October 1905 until
he resigned on 20th August 1906.
In 1907 heavy expenditure was incurred on changing
decayed timbers throughout the building. Not many months
after Sir Lancelot Hare joined and only about 4 years
after the completion of the building it was found that
for a variety of causes the timber was in an advanced
State of decay and an estimate of some Rs.68,000 was
sanctioned for expenditure on this work by the Government
of India, not without comment on the injudicious use
of so much woodwork or an inferior quality in the original
building.
In 1912, during the time of Sir Archdale Earle extensive
alterations were made to the Ball Room. It was lengthened
by 11 feet, from 52' to 63', a room added over the porch,
the Dressing and Cloak Rooms extended and improved.
The cost of this came to rather more than Rs.14,000/-
In 1914-15 an electric installation was put in at
a cost of Rs.46,621/-. There was no public electric
installation in those days, and the Government House
had its generating plant (which still exists, though
it has not been in use since Government House now gets
its current from the Hydro Electric Company). The fittings
gave a great deal of trouble. Sir Archdale Earle, writing
on 17th December 1914, referred to those which had been
selected during his absence on leave, as so extraordinarily
vulgar that it was impossible to accept them. So they
were scrapped and the Government of India had to be
approached for sanction to increased expenditure on
this account. The correspondence on this subject throws
an interesting sidelight on conditions in Shillong,
for in urging the necessity of funds being sanctioned,
it was stated in a letter dated the 12th January 1916
to the Government of India that what is called the Ball-room
is principally used for meetings of the Legislative
Council or Assam and Select Committee thereof.
The Council of those days was, of course, a small body,
consisting of only 24 members, 11 elected and 13 nominated.
The same room is also used for Durbar purposes. There
being no town hall of any kind in Shillon, the room
is also lent for many public function such as lectures
on First Aid, Nursing etc. etc. It is true that there
is a project which has been sanctioned by the Government
of India for additions to Government House so as to
provide separate suitable accommodation for the Legislative
Council. In view of the war, however, this project has
had to be abandoned, and it will probably be many years
before it can be taken up again. Meantime, the room,
which is called the ballroom, has to be used for a multiplicity
of public purposes. This was of accommodation, especially
since the inauguration of the Legislative Council in
Assam, had led before this to plans being drawn up for
considerable additions to Government House in order
to accommodate the Council. These proposal were forwarded
to the Government of India March 1914 and were accepted
by the Government of India but were never put into execution.
The main part of the scheme was to construct along the
east side of the Ball Room a hall of the same size as
the Ball Room divided by moveable partitions into Waiting,
Writing and Reading rooms for members. The Ball Room
itself was intended to be used as before for the actual
meetings. The opportunity was taken in connection with
this scheme to draw up proposals for the addition of
three extra bedrooms, to makeup for what was then described
as the "almost entire lack of accommodation for
guests", a lack of accommodation which persist
for many years. As far as the Legislature is concerned,
the difficulty disappeared in 1923, when, on the 1st
March, the then Legislative Council occupied the building
which now houses the Assam Legislative Assembly This
building was planned in Sir William Marris’ time
and he accepts responsibi1ity for the octagon-shaped
library which was suggested to him by a visit to Ottawa.
Sir William Marris (1921-1922) had the Hall Billiard
Room and the Dining Room panelled in 3-ply wood; and
had the rather clumsy wooden arches in the Hall replaced
by others of a lighter design.
In 1923 (Sir John Kerr) a hot water system was installed.
In 1930-31 (Sir Laurie Hammond) a modern water-carried
sanitation system was installed.
The history of the original guests’ bedroom
and dressing room in a little difficult to follow, but
it seems that one of the bathrooms had been done away
with for some reason by 1923, and by 1927 the bedroom
and the dressing room bad been renamed respectively
as “library or breakfast room and godown”.
“The Library or breakfast room”, however,
was apparently soon converted into a room for the use
of the Governor’s Stenographer and was thus used
until 1932 when he was relegate to the Old Dressing
Room and the 'library or breakfast room' became, as
it is now, a dining room for small parties.
During the period of office or Sir Michael Keane (1932-37)
a great improvement was carried out in the surfacing
of the whole of the carriage drives within the grounds
which put an end to what must have been a great nuisance
from dusts in the high winds of the ear) part of the
year. It was in Sir Michael Keane's time that the portion
of the carriage drive which went round by the south
of the house and emerged at the garages was turfed over
an improvement which must have added greatly to the
amenities of the house. A second important work which
the same Governor's had executed was the construction
of a new Billiard Room alongside the eastern wall of
the Ball Room. With the removal of the billiard table
from the main reception room, the latter became much
more spacious and suitable for the assembly. He also
had his own office room panelled throughout. In 1936
a wall was built along the Camels Back road running
westwards from the side entrance, in place of the old
open fencing.
Some important additions and alterations were made
in 1937 when Sir Robert Reid took office. In the first
place the old porch with its curious pagoda-like superstructure
was found to be in a rotten condition and in any case
had to be dismantled. So the opportunity was taken to
design a new entrance porch some 18 feet longer than
the old one with a straight roof and no superstructure.
Secondly, two new bedrooms were added running out from
the west side of the Ball Room, and at the same time
the open verandah with tiles and stone steps on this
side was closed in, the tiles and stone steps replaced
by timber, and a convenient alcove constructed for the
use of the band on dance nights. This did away with
what used to be the inconvenient expedient of putting
up a temporary canvas shelter for the band and for purposes
of sitting out, always damp and dark in the climate
of Sh1llong. The building of these two new bedrooms
entailed taking the carriage drive some feet outwards
and the removal or the Summer House rather further down
the bank. A valuable addition to the accommodation which
accompanied the construction of the new porch was a
Waiting Room on the left of the entrance, an inconvenience
which it is strange had been endured so long. Lastly,
a cook house was added to the Guard-room at the main
gate. Previous to that the sepoys' food had been cooked
at their quarters, the best part of a quarter of a mile
away. In 1938 a small Sitting Room was added to the
bedroom at the northern end of the east side of the
Ball Room and the Bedroom just behind the latter was
improved and enlarged by the throwing out of a bay-window.
In 1939, a further improvement was made at the Guard
Room in the shape of a sanitary unit, there having previously
been no such convenience there.
In the same year useful improvements ware made. A Twin
staircase was constructed at the North end of the Ball
room leading up to the gallery and porch room. This
enable the unsightly outside staircase in the North
Porch to be done away with, improved the porch room
as a room, and greatly improved the appearance of the
Ball Room. Thirdly, the principal bed and dressing room
Nos.1 and 1.A were greatly improved. The ceiling of
the bed-room was covered with 3-ply hollock sheets from
Margherita and a new and better fireplace in local,
pink stone was installed. The Dressing Room which hitherto
derived its light from windows looking on to the kitchen
and pantry was extended so as to take in its old bathroom,
and bay added, and the windows at the side closed up.
The bedroom, bathroom was attached to the dressing room
and the bedroom provided with a new bathroom. A new
and better fireplace was also placed in the dressing
room.
As regards the garden, it seems that Mr. Fuller paid
particular attention to this during the post-earthquake
period and gave personal instructions as to what shrubs
and so on were to be planted, and where.
It was Lady Kerr who, finding no vegetable garden here
when she arrived started one in the piece of land the
other side of the Camel's Back Road where it now is.
In Sir John Kerr's time also (1922-27) the small green
house was built, and some new servants' quarters.
It was Sir William Marris who had a vista cut at the
North-east corner of the house so as to give a View
down the valley: and who had the granite sun-dial erected
on the upper lawn with its inscription:
"Nulli optabilis dabitur mora
Irrevocabilis labitur hora
Ne sit (sic) inutilis semper labora
Neve sis futilis vigila ora".
The pictures belonging to the house call for little
comment. In the Ball Room there are the usual portraits
of their late Majesties King Edward and Queen Alexandra,
of King George V and Queen Mary; and one of Sir Bampfylde
Fuller painted by and presented to him as the first
Lieutenant-Governor of Eastern Bengal and Assam by “Comrades
of the Assam commission”. It bears, curiously
no date either of Sir Bampfylde Fuller's tenure of office
or of the presentation.
In the Lounge and the small Dining Room are 10 sketches
by Miss Eirene O'Connor of types of Khasis, Mikirs and
Syntengs including a large one of a Syiem of Khyriem.
In the small Dining Room is a sketch in crayon of a
Mishmi by Mrs Clark of Kurseong.
The Lounge, the passage to the Ball Room and the Ball
Room itself contain a large number of Naga, Manipuri,
Abor, Tibetan and other trophies. One of the stands
of spears in the Ball Room has a plate indicating that
they were “presented to Government House, Shillong,
by Brigadier-General C.E.Macquoid, D.S.O., and officers
engaged in Kuki Punitive Measures", but the date
has been omitted. The Kuki rebellion took place in 1918-1919.
Over the fireplace in the Dining Room is a rhinoceros
head inscribed “MELAPUKRI 1906”. This date
probably falls within Sir Bampfylde Fuller's term of
office.
The Dining Room also provides room for two chobs (ashashota)
used at Durbars. These are believed to have been purchased
one in Sir Charles Elliotts' time (1881-85) and one
in Sir William Ward’s time (1885-7 and 1891-6).
They were used at Dacca during the when that city was
the capital of the Province of the Eastern Bengal and
Assam (1906-12) and had to be recovered from Dacca when,
in 1913, after the Re-partition, Sir. Archdale Earle
wished to bold an investiture at Guwahati.
In the porch at the head of the step are two small
brass cannon mounted on wooden carriages. The inscriptions
are as follows:
In November 1940 the Syiem Khyriem presented a cannon
made of bronze or same such metal with an inscription
in Persian as follows:Badshah Sher Shah Adil/Badshah
Adil Sultan Sher Shah Adil Dar tariku to fand jahal
hashta Sayyad Ahmed Romi sher Shah Shah Adil [ "This
caunou was kade in 838 Hijra" 9835 +622-1460 A.D.)]On
the month of the cannon there ia a prayer fo the Badshah's
reign
and also the following words in Assamese:
He had intended to present a similar gun which was
found at Langkyrdem in khyriem State, miles from Shillong
on the Sylhet Road, but when the Government house lorry
was sent to fetch it, it was found that some lunatic
had carried it away. So the Syiem kindly presented a
gun which had been at his own house at Nongkrem for
a long time. It probably dates from
On the sale of the Sonamukhi in 1939 all moveable and
serviceable article of furniture on her were removed
to Government House, Shillong. These included a time
piece which is now in the Hall at Government House facing
the entrance, a bell which is at the Guard Room at the
main gate: a considerable amount of table gladd, crockery
and cutlery and a large number of chairs of various
sorts: and 4 long baths which are now at the Peak Cottage.
She was sold to some Marwari, but soon found her way
back to her old haunt, the Hooghly to be used as a flat
at the Baby Budge landing place for Imperial Airways
Flying Boats.
After the earthquake of 1897 rebuilding operations
commenced and the houses was reconstructed between 1899
and 1903. The first Chief Commissioner to occupy it,
was Mr. J.B. Fuller (later Sir Bampfylde Fuller) who
had succeeded Sir Henry Cotton 1n 1902. Immediately
after the earthquake temporary quarters were constructed
for the Chief Commissioner out of the ruins of Government
House by Mr. F.Hodgkins who was then probably acting
as Executive Engineer. They are shown on an old plan
dated the 27th October 1898 as a “Guest Chamber”
and “Temporary, Dining Room and Ball Room”
and were situated on the upper lawn opposite the present
M.S.G.’s quarter. While they were under construction
the Chief Commissioner and his household lived in tents.
In October 1903 when the new building had been complete
Mr Fuller ordered that the temporary buildings referred
to above should be re-erected at a place in the neighborhood
of the Peak which he had selected as the site for an
annexe to Government House, and for which he had arrange
to take a lease in perpetuity from Ron Sing the Syiem
of Mylliem. The land measured 3,298 acres Mr. Fuller
noted on the subject in the following terms in P.W.Dept.
File No.162 of 1903:-
I should like the building shifted to the site which
I have chosen near the Peak, and maintained there as
an annexe to Government House. Chief Engineer has inspected
this site and has approved of it. It is an exceedingly
good one, including some primeval oak forest and, while
sheltered from the west wind, it commands a striking
prospect in the direction of both the Himalayas and
the Kyllang Rock. The land here possess a semi-sacred
character and I consider it desirable to show great
liberality in negotiating for its transfer, so as to
make it clear that no advantage is being take of my
position as Chief Commissioner to over-ride the scruples
of the people. The land will be taken up on perpetual
lease – not purchased – and I have agreed
to pay 120/- per annum for the whole of the hill on
which the house will stand. This will be an area of
between 3 and 4 acres. The Syiem of Mylliem and his
Myntris had accepted these terms willingly. The D.C.
should be as to arrange for the execution of the lease".
The lease was dated the 12th November 1903 and provided
for an annual rent of 120/- payable from the 1st January
1904 (see letter No.99 dated 12th January 1904 from
Major P.R.T.Gurdon, Deputy Commissioner, K. & J.
Hills, in file No.14 of 1904). It was subsequently agreed
that the Syiem would undertake to receive back the land
when no longer required by Government. This site the
present Peak Cottage was constructed in 1904. The first
estimate was for Rs.5,971/-and there were supplementary
estimates for
Rs.1,412/-, Rs.63/-, Rs.151/-, making a total of Rs.7,597/-.
The materials of the
"Guest Chamber" only were uti1ised to build
the “Chateau”. Those of the Dinning Room
the Ball Room were use to rebuild Pine Mount School.
During the co of constructions, Mr. Fuller was constrained
to express in March 1904 his indignation at the felling
of a numb of pine trees on the site contrary to his
intensions, “deplorable act of folly which”,
he considered, had “nullified in a great measure
the natural advantages to influenced him in the selection
of the site”. The Executive Engineer, Mr. W.E.Knight,
was further informed that the Chief Commissioner had
been force to the conclusion that he did "not sufficient1y
appreciate that it is desirable that the P.W.D. should
aim at the attractive as well as the useful...”
However, fresh trees were planted under the Chief Commissioner's
personal direction and the lapse of years has rectified
the unfortunate mistake of the Public Works Department
in 1904.
The new residence seems to have been completed in September
1904, and Mr. Fuller decreed that it must be called
the “Chateau” and not the “Peak Cottage”.
It consists of a central dining room, with a sitting
room in front, two bedrooms and dressing rooms on either
side of the dinning room, and a small office on the
North-east corner. There is a 2-room separate quarter
on the west of the main building for the staff, a Guard
Room, garage and the usual adjuncts. An electric power
plant was installed in 1929.
Sir Michael Keane had the Guard Room and quarter built
as well as an additional, and badly needed, row of servants
quarters (the lower of the two). The Guard must have
been very uncomfortable before in tents.
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